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Digitale Medien

Some properties of surf-beats (1979)

Fujinawa, Yukio

Springer

Journal of oceanography 35 (1979), S. 9-25

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ISSN: 1573-868X

Quelle: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000

Thema: Geologie und Paläontologie

Notizen: Abstract Long ocean waves with periods of several minutes (surf-beats) were observed at a marine observation tower. We have analysed time series data of an envelope of incident swell, long period current velocity and surface elevation fluctuations. Current velocity was measued by an electromagnetic flow meter. Surf-beats amplitudeH (l) is shown to be proportional to 3/2 power of incident swell amplitudeH (s), and decreases with increase of depthh in proportional toh −1/2 such thatH (l) ∼H (s) (H (s)/h)1/2. Frequency energy density functionP LL (f) of surface elevation had two dominant peaks whose frequencies were highly stable through the entire observational period. Cross-spectral analysis suggested that those peaks correspond to traveling edge waves caused by the excess momentum and mass flux in the surf zone. The forced long ocean waves predicted byLonguet-Higgins andStewart (1964) was ditected. Phase-shift and wave height of the wave with respect to those of incident swell envelope are shown to be in remarkable agreement with the predictions. However the forced long wave is only a minor component in the total energy of surf-beats. Current fields are shown to be largely composed of non-surface modes.

Materialart: Digitale Medien

URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02108278

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Digitale Medien

Measurements of directional spectrum of wind waves using an array of wave detectors Part II. Field observation (1975)

Fujinawa, Yukio

Springer

Journal of oceanography 31 (1975), S. 25-42

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ISSN: 1573-868X

Quelle: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000

Thema: Geologie und Paläontologie

Notizen: Abstract The directional spectrum of wind waves was observed using seven wave gauges at the marine observation tower. Directional spectrum was calculated by the method described inFujinawa (1974 a) which assures the high directional resolving power. Under the nearly uniform condition of the wind the process of wave development was studied by the use of the data of the directional spectrum. The analysis revealed that, 1) the mean wave direction does not necessarily coincide with the wind direction, 2) the directional spreading is much narrower than hitherto reported, 3) the growth rate is closely proportional to the square of cosine of the angle between the wave direction and the wind direction, 4) the resonancetype wave-wave interaction plays only minor role in the process of wave development for any wave component in the earlier stage of development and for the most rapidly developing component in the main stage of development.

Materialart: Digitale Medien

URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02108216

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Digitale Medien

Reply (1975)

Fujinawa, Yukio

Springer

Journal of oceanography 31 (1975), S. 176-177

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ISSN: 1573-868X

Quelle: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000

Thema: Geologie und Paläontologie

Materialart: Digitale Medien

URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02107109

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