Notes: This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing γ linolenic acid.In human dry skin the usual fatty acids were found in the stratum corneum as in normal skin outer layers. Among the saturated series no significant difference was observed in the C16 chain but a smaller quantity of C18:0 was detected. In the unsaturated series a marked fall of linoleic acid as well as a higher level of C16:1 in the stratum corneum appeared as the major significant events that could characterize dry skin. γ linolenic acid was detectable neither in normal nor in dry skin. α linolenic acid was found but not consistently.After multiple applications of blackcurrant seed oil in an emulsion preparation, impregnation of the stratum corneum was complete, and essential or other fatty acids contained in the oil (particularly linoleic and linolenic acids) were found in combination with endogenous lipids. Possibly they contribute to enhance the protective effect of the stratum corneum.

Notes: Background There is a growing awareness that some individuals exhibit heightened skin sensitivity, particularly on the face, and have a high incidence of adverse reactions to cosmetics and toiletries. Objectives To carry out an epidemiological study to assess the prevalence of sensitive skin and cosmetic-related adverse events in a U.K. population, and to examine possible factors that may be associated with sensitive skin. Methods Self-assessment questionnaires were sent out to 3300 women and 500 men, randomly selected, who were over the age of 18 years and lived within a 10-mile radius of High Wycombe (Bucks.). Fifty non-responder women were also questioned by telephone to ensure that the postal responders were representative of the population as a whole. Results The response rates were 62% for women and 52% for men, with the incidence of self-reported skin sensitivity being 51·4% and 38·2%, respectively. Ten per cent of women and 5·8% of men described themselves as having very sensitive skin. Fifty-seven per cent of women and 31·4% of men had experienced an adverse reaction to a personal product at some stage in their lives, with 23% of women and 13·8% of men having had a problem in the last 12 months. Among the women, symptoms of cosmetic-induced subjective sensory skin discomfort (burning, stinging, itching etc.) occurred more commonly in the sensitive skin cohort (53%) than in those who regarded themselves as non-sensitive (17%). An atopic diathesis in women did not appear to be a predictive factor for sensitive skin, the incidence of self-perceived sensitive skin being equivalent for atopics (49%) and non-atopics (51%). Furthermore, some 34% of atopic women described themselves as being non-sensitive. Nevertheless, the incidence of atopy was higher among the women in the sensitive skin group (49%) than among those in the non-sensitive group (27%). Dry skin and a predilection for blushing/flushing were associated factors for sensitive skin. Conclusions Our survey indicates that sensitive facial skin is a common problem for women and men in the U.K. and points to the need for the development of personal products designed for this skin phenotype.

Notes: Sixteen patients with localized scleroderma (LS) and 11 with progressive systemic sclerosis (PSS) were studied using non-invasive techniques to determine skin thickness, skin extensibility, transcutaneous PO2 and cutaneous blood flow and were compared with normal controls. LS was characterized by a decreased skin extensibility with thickening of the skin in progressive lesions. There was an increase in the cutaneous microcirculation with a decrease in the PO2. In PSS, there was a decrease in the skin extensibility caused by thickening of the skin, but no change in cutaneous microcirculation or PO2 values. These results indicate that skin thickness and extensibility are the most useful parameters in the study of the progression of LS and PSS.

Notes: In this study of 152 women, comparison of patch test responses between 2 irritants over 96 h at 2 symmetrical anatomical sites is studied. 2 irritants, each at 4 different concentrations (nonanoic acid (NAA) 80%, 40%, 20%, 10%; sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) 3%, 2%, 1% and 0.5%) and using propan-lol and‘water for injection’as the respective controls, were placed as 15 μl aliquots, soaked onto filter paper discs in Finn Chambers, on the volunteer's left and right lower back. The patches were removed at 47, and read at 48 and 96 h. Irritant reactions were evaluated for erythema and surface changes by degree and area affected. Statistical analysis of the results showed that erythema decreased with time for all concentrations of NAA, and at higher concentrations for SLS. Surface changes increased with time for SLS and at higher concentrations of NAA. There was no statistically significant difference comparing left and right sides. Traditionally in patch testing, reactions which fade after 48 h have been regarded as irritant rather than allergic. This study refutes that assumption. Data from our left to right comparisons, made in the same individuals at the same time, show that irritant reactions may be more reproducible than previously appreciated.

Notes: Background/purpose: In this study, in vivo skin imaging methods, ultrasound (US) and confocal microscopy (CM) were compared with regards to their accuracy in measuring the epidermal thickness. In addition an attempt was made to clarify the biological significance of the second echo-rich line observed on US skin images, i.e. whether it represents the dermal–epidermal junction or the papillar–reticular dermis limit.Methods: US images were obtained with an in-house device (22 MHz probe) and the CM images with the VivaScope 1000 (Lucid Inc., Rochester, NY, USA). Skin from the dorsal forearm, the back of hand and the palm skin of 11 subjects (25–40 years) were examined. Repeatability of the procedure and reproducibility of the results were evaluated on repeated measurements taken at 1-month interval.Results: Both techniques are correlated. When a CM measurement is performed from the stratum corneum (SC) surface to the bottom of the papillae, results obtained with US and CM are very similar. Thus, the second echo-rich line on US skin imaging is likely to reflect a virtual line joining the bottom of the papillae. CM is limited to the measurement of a relative thin epidermis, due to the signal-to-noise ratio, which decreases with depth. US technique offers a better repeatability and reproducibility, particularly for SC measurement. This is mainly due to the small size of the investigated field of view in CM.Conclusion: This study confirms the accuracy of US and the feasibility of CM imaging techniques for in vivo epidermal thickness measurement. Echography probably measures a maximal epidermal thickness since it encompasses the bottom of the papillae.

Notes: To examine possible ethnic variations in perception of sensitive skin, an epidemiological survey was performed in the San Francisco area. Approximately 800 telephone interviews were conducted with women from four different ethnic groups (Afro-Americans, Asians, Euro-Americans, Hispanics; approximately 200 women per group). In addition to sensitive facial skin assessments, age and other general skin condition data were collected. 52% of the subjects identified themselves as having sensitive facial skin. There was no statistical difference between the ethnic groups in terms of sensitive skin prevalence. Nevertheless, some differences were noted between ethnic subgroups of sensitive skin. Euro-Americans were characterized by a higher skin reactivity to wind and tended to be less reactive to cosmetics. Afro-Americans presented diminished skin reactivity to most environmental factors and a lower frequency of recurring facial redness. Asians appeared to have greater skin reactivity to spicy food, to sudden changes in temperature and to wind, and tended to suffer from itching more frequently. Hispanics presented a lower incidence of skin reactivity to alcohol. The differences in skin sensitivity between ethnic groups concerned mostly factors of skin reactivity and, to a lesser extent, its symptomatology. But, taken together, we note the similarities in comparing how women of varying ethnic backgrounds perceive the sensitive skin condition.