Description: Surface wave energy and dissipation are observed across the surf zone. Utilizing the concept of surface rollers, a new scaling is introduced to obtain the energy flux and dissipation related to rollers from Doppler velocities measured by a shore‐based X‐band marine radar. The dissipation of wave energy and hence the transformation of the incoming wave height (or energy) is derived using the coupled wave and roller energy balance equations. Results are compared to in‐situ wave measurements obtained from a wave rider buoy and two bottom mounted pressure wave gauges. A good performance in reproducing the significant wave height is found yielding an overall root‐mean‐square error of 0.22 m and a bias of −0.12 m. This is comparable to the skill of numerical wave models. In contrast to wave models, however, the radar observations of the wave and roller energy flux and dissipation neither require knowledge of the bathymetry nor the incident wave height. Along a 1.5 km long cross‐shore transect on a double‐barred, sandy beach in the southern North Sea, the highest dissipation rates are observed at the inner bar over a relatively short distance of less than 100 m. During the peak of a medium‐severe storm event with significant wave heights over 3 m, about 50% of the incident wave energy flux is dissipated at the outer bar.

Description: Plain Language Summary: Ocean waves are carrying a large amount of mechanical energy which they have gained from the wind blowing over the ocean surface. At the coast this energy supply generates strong water motions, creates forces on coastal structures, moves sand, and can cause coastal erosion. It is therefore important to know when, where, and to what extent wave energy is reduced under different environmental conditions. The majority of the energy is removed by wave breaking. However, this process is still not completely understood which is partly due to fact that it is difficult to observe. This is particularly the case during storm conditions when it is very complicated to install and recover measurement equipment in the ocean. The present work describes a methodology to obtain such measurements using a special radar device which is installed at the beach; hence, it is not being impacted by harsh wave conditions. This approach will enable scientists to perform long‐term monitoring of wave breaking thus opening new opportunities to study beach processes and coastal changes.

Description: Key Points: high‐resolution observations of surface wave and roller dissipation as well as the transformation of wave height across the surf zone. the concept of surface rollers is applied to shore‐based X‐band Doppler radar data. in storm conditions, 50% of the wave energy is dissipated at a submerged outer sandbar, but strongest dissipation occurs further inshore.

Description: Helmholtz Association http://dx.doi.org/10.13039/501100009318

Description: http://codm.hzg.de/codm

Description: https://doi.org/10.1594/683PANGAEA.898407

Description: https://doi.org/10.1594/PANGAEA.942014

Description: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.5787131

Description: Cruise M160 is part of concerted MOSES/REEBUS Eddy Study featuring three major research expeditions (M156, M160, MSM104). It aims to develop both a qualitative and quantitative understanding of the role of physical-chemical-biological coupling in eddies for the biological pump. The study is part of the MOSES “Ocean Eddies” event chain, which follows three major hypotheses to be addressed by the MOSES/REEBUS field campaigns: (1) Mesoscale and sub-mesoscale eddies play an important role in transferring energy along the energy cascade from the large-scale circulation to dissipation at the molecular level. (2) Mesoscale and sub-mesoscale eddies are important drivers in determining onset, magnitude and characteristics of biological productivity in the ocean and contribute significantly to global primary production and particle export and transfer to the deep ocean. (3) Mesoscale and sub-mesoscale eddies are important for shaping extreme biogeochemical environments (e.g., pH, oxygen) in the oceans, thus acting as a source/sink function for greenhouse gases. In contrast to the other two legs, MOSES Eddy Study II during M160 did not include any benthic work but focused entirely on the pelagic dynamics within eddies. It accomplished a multi-disciplinary, multi-parameter and multi-platform study of two discrete cyclonic eddies in an unprecedented complexity. The pre-cruise search for discrete eddies suitable for detailed study during M160 had already started a few months prior to the cruise. Remote sensing data products (sea surface height, sea surface temperature, ocean color/chlorophyll a) were used in combination with eddy detection algorithms and numerical modelling to identify and track eddies in the entire eddy field off West Africa. In addition, 2 gliders and 1 waveglider had been set out from Mindelo/Cabo Verde for pre-cruise mapping of the potential working area north of the Cabo Verdean archipelago. At the start of M160, a few suitable eddies – mostly of cyclonic type – had been identified, some of which were outside the safe operation range of the motorglider plane. As technical problems delayed the flight operations, the first eddy (center at 14.5°N/25°W) for detailed study was chosen to the southwest of the island of Fogo. It was decided to carry out a first hydrographic survey there followed by the deployment of a suite of instruments (gliders, waveglider, floats, drifter short-term mooring). Such instrumented, we left this first eddy and transited – via a strong anticyclonic feature southwest of the island of Santiago – to the region northeast of the island of Sal, i.e. in the working range of the glider plane. During the transit, a full suite of underway measurements as well as CTD/RO section along 22°W (16°-18.5°N) were carried in search for sub-surface expressions of anticyclonic eddy features. In the northeast, we had identified the second strong cyclonic eddy (center at 18°N/22.5°W) which was chosen for detailed study starting with a complete hydrographic survey (ADCP, CTD/RO, other routine station work). After completion of the mesoscale work program, we identified a strong frontal region at the southwestern rim of the cyclonic eddy, which was chosen for the first sub-mesoscale study with aerial observation component. There, the first dye release experiment was carried out which consisted of the dye release itself followed by an intense multi-platforms study of the vertical and horizontal spreading of the initial dye streak. This work was METEOR-Berichte, Cruise M160, Mindelo – Mindelo, 23.11.2019 4 – 20.12.2019 supported and partly guided by aerial observation of the research motorglider Stemme, which was still somewhat compromised by technical issues and meteorological conditions (high cloud cover, Saharan dust event). Nevertheless, this first dye release experiment was successful and showed rapid movement of the dynamic meandering front. After completion of work on this second eddy and execution of a focused sampling program at the Cape Verde Ocean Observation, RV METEOR returned to the first eddy for continuation of the work started there in the beginning of the cruise. This was accompanied by a relocation of the airbase of Stemme from the international airport of Sal to the domestic airport of Fogo. The further execution of the eddy study at this first eddy, which again included a complete hydrographic survey followed by a mesoscale eddy study with dye release, was therefore possible with aerial observations providing important guidance for work on RV METEOR. Overall, M160 accomplished an extremely intense and complex work program with 212 instrument deployments during station work, 137 h of observation with towed instruments and a wide range of underway measurements throughout the cruise. Up to about 30 individually tracked platforms (Seadrones, glider, wavegliders, drifters, floats) were in the water at the same time providing unprecedented and orchestrated observation capabilities in an eddy. All planned work components were achieved and all working groups acquired the expected numbers of instrument deployments and sampling opportunities.