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  • Coast changes  (4)
  • Tidal inlets  (3)
  • Atlantic Twin (Ship) Cruise  (1)
  • 1
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Repeated side-scan sonar and multi-frequency bathymetric surveys, accompanied by accurate, high resolution, and repeatable navigation, were conducted in the vicinity of a tidal inlet to define the length and time scales associated with bedforms and channel shoaling in a structured tidal inlet. The study site, St. Marys entrance channel along the Georgia/Florida border (Fig. 1), has a dredged channel approximately 46-52 feet in depth at a datum of mean low water (MLW), bordered by a large ebb tidal delta. The tidal inlet serves Cumberland Sound, Kings Bay, and associated waterways, providing a large discharge of water from the inlet that creates bedforms and channel shoaling, given the abundance of sand-size sediment in the vicinity. The jettied inlet produces flows that are predominantly tidally-driven, whereas farther offshore the driving forces consist predominantly of waves and storm-generated flows. In the channel reaches (Table 1) between these two areas, combined wave/steady flows are present, creating a myriad of scales of bedforms and shoaling patterns, emphasizing the difference in these scales between the three different flow regimes. The results provide an important data base for quantifying shoaling processes and mechanisms in tidal inlet channels.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration's Sea Grant Program through Grant NA860-A-D-090.
    Keywords: Tidal inlets ; Sediment transport ; Bedform migration
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 5366472 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 2
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Repeated side-scan sonar and multi-frequency bathymetric surveys, accompanied by accurate, high resolution, and repeatable navigation, were conducted in the vicinity of a tidal inlet to define the length and time scales associated with bedforms and channel shoaling in a structured tidal inlet. The study site, St. Mary's entrance channel along the Georgia/Florida border (Fig. I), has a dredged channel approximately 46-52 feet in depth, bordered by a large ebb tidal delta. The tidal inlet serves Cumberland Sound, Kings Bay, and associated waterways, providing a large discharge of water from the inlet that creates bedforms and channel shoaling, given the abundance of sand-sized sediment in the vicinity. The jettied inlet produces flows tht are predominately tidally-driven, whereas farther offshore the driving forces consist predominately of waves and storm-generated flows. In the channel reaches (Table 1) between these two areas, combined wave-steady flows are present, creating a myriad of scales of bedforms and shoaling patterns. This study was designed to elucidate the time and space scales of these variable bedforms and shoaling patterns, emphasizing the difference in these scales between the three different flow regimes. The results provide an important data base for quantifying shoaling processes and mechanisms in tidal inlet channels.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration under Sea Grant No. NA860A-D-SG090.
    Keywords: Tidal inlets ; Sediment transport ; Ebb tidal deltas ; Bedforms ; Controlling depth
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 4023938 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 3
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Popponesset Spit, the barrier beach sheltering Popponesset Bay on Cape Cod, Massachusetts, has experienced large changes in its location and shape over the past thirty years. Concern by the public over loss of this barrier beach and the associated recreational and wildlife resources, as well as its storm-protection function, resulted in a number of studies involving local, state and federal officials. The purpose of these studies was to identify causes and future trends (Benoit and Donahoe, 1979) and to identify engineering solutions to this instability (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1972; Camp, Dresser and McKee, 1981). For various reasons, these studies were incomplete and stated some conclusions which were generally misleading or incorrect. The purpose of the present study was to provide a thorough reexamination of the geological problem at Popponesset Spit, to dispel the misconceptions and to more rigorously document the large-scale changes. The impetus for our concern over the beach was a desire to contribute to an effective, rational management and utilization strategy for this coastal region.
    Description: Prepared for the Board of Seiectmen of the Town of Mashpee, Commonweaith, MA and for the Department of Commerce, NOAA Office of Sea Grant under Grant NA 80AA-0-00077.
    Keywords: Coast changes ; Sedimentation and deposition
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 4
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: A new tidal inlet into Chatham Harbor, Massachusetts, has developed from a breach in the barrier beach, Nauset Beach, that forms the outer shoreline of southeastern Cape Cod. Increased tidal range and wave energy resulting from the new inlet produced acute coastal erosion and channel shoaling within Chatham Harbor, with significant impacts on the fishing and boating industries, and on private and public propeny and interests. Study results are consistent with the hypothesis that the Nauset-Monomoy barrier beach system undergoes a long-term cycle of geomorphological change, and that a new cycle was initiated with the formation of this new inlet. Based on this new understanding, future changes in the system can be foreseen and provided to coastal resource managers.
    Description: Funding was provided by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, Department of Environmental Management, Division of Waterways; the Town of Chatham; Woods Hole Sea Grant Program; Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management; U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (New England Division and Coastal Engineering Research Center); Town of Orleans; and Friends of Pleasant Bay.
    Keywords: Coast changes ; Beach erosion
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 5
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: A historical study of barrier beach and inlet changes for the Nauset Inlet region, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, was performed to document patterns of beach and inlet change as a preliminary to designing and carrying out ffeld studies of inlet sediment transport. 120 historical charts from 1670 and 125 sets of aerial photographs from 1938 formed the basis for this study. Specific aspects of barrier beach and inlet change addressed include onshore barrier beach movement, longshore tidal inlet migration, and longshore sand bypassing past the inlet. In an effort to correlate forcing events with barrier changes, an exhaustive study of the local storm climate was performed. Detailed treatment of the specific mechanisms responsible for Nauset Inlet migration episodes in a direction opposite the dominant littoral drift are treated in a companion paper by Aubrey, Speer, and Ruder (1982). Documentation of the data base available for the Nauset Area is presented herein as appendices.
    Description: Prepared for NOAA, 0ffice of Sea Gnant under Grant NA 80-AA-D- 00077 (R/B-21) and for the U.S. Army Research 0ffice under Grant DAAG29-81-K-0004.
    Keywords: Coast changes ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 6
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    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Pathways and rates of near-bed sediment transport near Popponesset Beach, MA ., were calculated using several distinct techniques. For the nearshore platform, sand transport in the form of sand waves was determined from vertical aerial photography spanning periods of four decades. In addition, calculations based on theoretical and empirical equations for near-bed sediment transport were made using field measurements of wind waves and tidal currents. Net sediment transport to the southwest inferred from these two techniques differed by about a factor of five. The higher net transport rate predicted in the aerial photographic method is a result of lack of wave measurements during storm conditions. Storm waves increase the net transport through a local increase in bed shear stress. Net transport to the southwest across the platform is between 700 and 3300 m3/yr. Littoral sand transport along Popponesset Beach was calculated from one month of directional wave measurements, extrapolated to a yearly value using long-term meteorological observations. Littoral transport from these calculations is 10,000 m3/yr to the northeast, opposite the sense of alongshore transport in the shallow nearshore. Patterns of shoreline change are discussed from a historical perspective, and using the transport calculations discussed above. Several management alternatives for coping with predicted shoreline change are presented for consideration by the Town of Mashpee.
    Description: Funding was provided by the Town of Mashpee, a Community Assistance Grant was provided through the Coastal Zone Management Program, a Sea Grant Program Grant NA80AA-D-00077(RB-40) and support from ALCOA Foundation.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Coast changes
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 7
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: This report describes and presents the hydrodynamic meaurements made during the Atlantic Shelf Sand Ridge Study at and near Peahala Ridge, offshore of Long Beach Island, New Jersey, in Spring 1985. The intent of this phase of the study was to examine the physical oceanographic and fluid mechanical processes in the vicinity of Peahala Ridge, one of the large shore-oblique sand ridges common in the area, and from this to identify those processes responsible for sand transport near the ridge with particular reference to its generation, maintenance and migration. The field measurement program was carried out from March to May 1985 by scientists and staff of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. It included measurements of currents, temperature, waves, pressure and near-bed velocity profiles. This phase was part of a larger oil industry study that included extensive geological and geophysical measurements of Peahala Ridge and other ridge-and-swale areas of the mid-Atlantic continental shelf.
    Description: Funding was provided by the Cities Services Oil and Gas Corporation under agreement as of April 25, 1985 and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Coastal Research Center.
    Keywords: Ridge and swale topography ; Wave-current interactions ; Sand ridges ; Atlantic Twin (Ship) Cruise
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 2390308 bytes
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  • 8
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: The apparent persistence and stability of multiple tidal inlets in coastal lagoons are important for a variety of reasons, such as water quality, navigability and beach/barrier stability. To identify and study the processes controlling the persistence of multiple tidal inlets, the hydrodynamics of the system have to be better understood. This project is part of a larger study (INDIA) examining general tidal inlet processes. The present components consist of a numerical simulation study of processes controlling multiple inlet stability, combined with exhaustive field measurements. This report addresses only the second component. The analysis uses as study site and main source of data the Ria Formosa lagoon in Portugal, which has multiple and historically persistent inlets. For the numerical simulation model, field measurements are needed to provide (i) updated bathymetry of the inlets, in situ measurements of (ii) water level fluctuations within the estuary and (iii) flow velocities through the inlets. This report gives first a brief description of the instrumentation used in the field (section 2), then describes the methods used to deploy the instruments, perform the surveys and gather the data (section 3), explains the procedures for data reduction and show some results (section 4 and Annex).
    Description: Funding was provided by WHOI Sea Grant, EU MAST III Program, UNAM, Mellon Foundation and Rinehart Coastal Research Center.
    Keywords: Tidal inlets ; Tidal distortion ; Numerical modeling
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 8491161 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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