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  • 1
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    Survey of shoreline structures, Popponesset Beach, MA (2017)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: The structures along a 12 km section of the shoreline of Cape Cod, Mass., were evaluated for condition and effectiveness at protecting the coast. Structures in the area include groins, jetties, revetments, and seawalls; each has been located, photographed and described. The region has been subject to erosion in recent years, including the loss of a 1 km section of barrier spit. The role of shoreline structures in controlling or enhancing the erosion was examined as part of a larger study of coastal processes in the area. The shoreline structures serve two primary functions: beach enhancement and protection of the bluffs from erosion. The structures• effects on bluffs and beaches in their immediate vicinity (approximately lOOm along the coastline to the north and south of the structure) are detailed in this report. Seawalls generally protect the cliffs into which they are built without enhancing erosion of surrounding bluffs, though the bluffs are protected at the expense of the beaches in the central area (Meadow Point). Large scale changes in beach configuration are not primarily caused by local, small-scale structures, but rather by a more regional paucity of sand input into the system. This scarcity is caused in part by large jetties controlling inlet flows to Waquoit Bay, which impedes free transport of sand into the area.
    Description: Funding was provided through a Massachusetts Coastal Zone Management Program Community Assistance Grant by the Town of Mashpee and through NOAA, Office of Sea Grant under Grant NA80AA-D-00077 (RB-40).
    Keywords: Shore protection ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
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  • 2
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    Proceedings of a Workshop on Coastal Zone Research in Massachusetts : (November 27-28, 1978) (2018)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: A workshop on Coastal Zone Research held on 27 and 28 November, 1978, at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, brought together fifty researchers actively studying physical processes in the Massachusetts coastal zone (Appendix 1). Presentations were given by nearly half of the participants to acquaint other researchers with their past, present, and future research interests. Summaries of the presentations are included in Appendix 3. Although the scope of the workshop was narrow, emphasizing only selected aspects of coastal zone research, it represented an important attempt to assess our knowledge of physical processes in the nearshore, and to encourage cooperation and communication between scientists. Two sets of recommendations evolved from the workshop. The first set recommends ways to facilitate scientist - user communication, and provide more rapid dissemination of coastal research results. The second set describes areas of future research in the Massachusetts coastal zone. Neither of the two sets of recommendations is comprehensive: they reflect primarily the opinions and judgements of the workshop participants. Because of the interest expressed by the participants, the workshop will be held on an annual basis until the need for such meetings disappears. Future workshops may have specific goals, e.g. preparation of coastal erosion maps or historical shoreline change maps. Future meetings may also have more state, federal, and local governmental participants in an effort to foster scientist - user communications. The workshop was co-sponsored by the Woods Hole Sea Grant Program and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. The Woods Hole Sea Grant Program has offered to co-sponsor future Workshops on Coastal zone Research as part of their continued interest in the Massachusetts coastal zone.
    Description: Prepared for the Department of Commerce, NOAA Office of Sea Grant under Grant 04-8-M01-149 and the Institution's Marine Policy and Ocean Management Program.
    Keywords: Coastal zone management ; Beach erosion ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
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  • 3
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    Sedimentation study, Environmental Monitoring and Operations Guidance System (EMOGS), Kings Bay, Georgia and Florida, 1988-1990 : final report (2006)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Repeated side-scan sonar and multi-frequency bathymetric surveys, accompanied by accurate, high resolution, and repeatable navigation, were conducted in the vicinity of a tidal inlet to define the length and time scales associated with bedforms and channel shoaling in a structured tidal inlet. The study site, St. Marys entrance channel along the Georgia/Florida border (Fig. 1), has a dredged channel approximately 46-52 feet in depth at a datum of mean low water (MLW), bordered by a large ebb tidal delta. The tidal inlet serves Cumberland Sound, Kings Bay, and associated waterways, providing a large discharge of water from the inlet that creates bedforms and channel shoaling, given the abundance of sand-size sediment in the vicinity. The jettied inlet produces flows that are predominantly tidally-driven, whereas farther offshore the driving forces consist predominantly of waves and storm-generated flows. In the channel reaches (Table 1) between these two areas, combined wave/steady flows are present, creating a myriad of scales of bedforms and shoaling patterns, emphasizing the difference in these scales between the three different flow regimes. The results provide an important data base for quantifying shoaling processes and mechanisms in tidal inlet channels.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration's Sea Grant Program through Grant NA860-A-D-090.
    Keywords: Tidal inlets ; Sediment transport ; Bedform migration
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 5366472 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 4
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    Sedimentation study, Environmental Monitoring and Operations Guidance System (EMOGS), Kings Bay, Georgia and Florida : Phase III--FY 1989 (2006)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Repeated side-scan sonar and multi-frequency bathymetric surveys, accompanied by accurate, high resolution, and repeatable navigation, were conducted in the vicinity of a tidal inlet to define the length and time scales associated with bedforms and channel shoaling in a structured tidal inlet. The study site, St. Mary's entrance channel along the Georgia/Florida border (Fig. I), has a dredged channel approximately 46-52 feet in depth, bordered by a large ebb tidal delta. The tidal inlet serves Cumberland Sound, Kings Bay, and associated waterways, providing a large discharge of water from the inlet that creates bedforms and channel shoaling, given the abundance of sand-sized sediment in the vicinity. The jettied inlet produces flows tht are predominately tidally-driven, whereas farther offshore the driving forces consist predominately of waves and storm-generated flows. In the channel reaches (Table 1) between these two areas, combined wave-steady flows are present, creating a myriad of scales of bedforms and shoaling patterns. This study was designed to elucidate the time and space scales of these variable bedforms and shoaling patterns, emphasizing the difference in these scales between the three different flow regimes. The results provide an important data base for quantifying shoaling processes and mechanisms in tidal inlet channels.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration under Sea Grant No. NA860A-D-SG090.
    Keywords: Tidal inlets ; Sediment transport ; Ebb tidal deltas ; Bedforms ; Controlling depth
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 4023938 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 5
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    Beach changes at Nauset Inlet, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, 1670-1981 (2014)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: A historical study of barrier beach and inlet changes for the Nauset Inlet region, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, was performed to document patterns of beach and inlet change as a preliminary to designing and carrying out ffeld studies of inlet sediment transport. 120 historical charts from 1670 and 125 sets of aerial photographs from 1938 formed the basis for this study. Specific aspects of barrier beach and inlet change addressed include onshore barrier beach movement, longshore tidal inlet migration, and longshore sand bypassing past the inlet. In an effort to correlate forcing events with barrier changes, an exhaustive study of the local storm climate was performed. Detailed treatment of the specific mechanisms responsible for Nauset Inlet migration episodes in a direction opposite the dominant littoral drift are treated in a companion paper by Aubrey, Speer, and Ruder (1982). Documentation of the data base available for the Nauset Area is presented herein as appendices.
    Description: Prepared for NOAA, 0ffice of Sea Gnant under Grant NA 80-AA-D- 00077 (R/B-21) and for the U.S. Army Research 0ffice under Grant DAAG29-81-K-0004.
    Keywords: Coast changes ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 6
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    Coastal sediment transport, Popponesset Beach, MA (2014)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Pathways and rates of near-bed sediment transport near Popponesset Beach, MA ., were calculated using several distinct techniques. For the nearshore platform, sand transport in the form of sand waves was determined from vertical aerial photography spanning periods of four decades. In addition, calculations based on theoretical and empirical equations for near-bed sediment transport were made using field measurements of wind waves and tidal currents. Net sediment transport to the southwest inferred from these two techniques differed by about a factor of five. The higher net transport rate predicted in the aerial photographic method is a result of lack of wave measurements during storm conditions. Storm waves increase the net transport through a local increase in bed shear stress. Net transport to the southwest across the platform is between 700 and 3300 m3/yr. Littoral sand transport along Popponesset Beach was calculated from one month of directional wave measurements, extrapolated to a yearly value using long-term meteorological observations. Littoral transport from these calculations is 10,000 m3/yr to the northeast, opposite the sense of alongshore transport in the shallow nearshore. Patterns of shoreline change are discussed from a historical perspective, and using the transport calculations discussed above. Several management alternatives for coping with predicted shoreline change are presented for consideration by the Town of Mashpee.
    Description: Funding was provided by the Town of Mashpee, a Community Assistance Grant was provided through the Coastal Zone Management Program, a Sea Grant Program Grant NA80AA-D-00077(RB-40) and support from ALCOA Foundation.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Coast changes
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 7
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    Sediment transport in a tidal inlet (2017)
    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Various aspects of sediment transport in and around natural, unstructured tidal inlets were investigated over the two year period of study. Concentrating on two tidal inlets (Nauset Inlet and Popponesset Inlet, Cape Cod, MA), and combining detailed field observations with numerical model studies of tidal flows in inlet/estuarine environments, several aspects of tidal inlet behavior have been clarified. In addition, field work has resulted in a number of technical publications of general utility to a wide spectrum of coastal research interest. Primary scientific items addressed in this study include: 1) diagnostic numerical model of generation and propagation of tidal non-liniarities in shallow estuarine channels; 2) effects of flow curvature on tidal inlet sediment transport; 3) definition of mechanisms by which tidal inlets migrate in a direction opposite to the net littoral drift direction; 4) hypothesis of a mechanism for rapid barrier spit growth in locations with low rates of littoral transport; 5) clarification of long-term patterns of sea-level rise in the United States to assess its role in tidal inlet/esturarine evolution; 6) historical descriptions of massive inlet migration at two study inlets as supporting evidence for the inlet modeling studies. Technical information generated by the study includes a description of a low-cost, reliable method to join nearshore electrical cables; description and intercomparison of instrumentation and analysis routines for estimating directional spectral parameters from wave gage data; and development of a field system and laboratory analysis package for preparing accurate bathymetric charts in shallow, nearshore regions, using microwave navigation and precision echo-sounding.
    Description: Funding was provided by the U.S. Army Research Office under Grant DAAG 29-81-K-0004 and the Department of Commerce, NOAA Office of Sea Grant under Grants NA79AA-D-00102 and NA80AA-D-00077.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Inlets
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
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